Quality

Over the years, we have produced thousands of great tailor made suits. It is our goal to produce high quality clothes at great prices. This goal has kept us motivated for many years.

 

We know it is not easy for most customers to spot a good tailor made suits. So below are some great tips:

1. QUALITY DETAILS AND COMPONENTS

For your suit or shirt, we understand it is what’s on the inside that counts. Every component is selected not only because of its purpose. We ensure that each component combines with other details to make the best possible suit or shirt.

a. Lapel Roll

We are the only tailor in Hoi An that does suit jackets with lapel roll (see illustration on right for interior construction of jacket). This means the canvas beneath the jacket is rolled from the chest to the lapel and the canvas is hand stitched onto the tailor made suit.

 

How to test: The lapel should feel thicker and the fold between the lapel and chest area should be curled and livelier. Cheap suits without lapel roll will look flat abruptly above the first button.

Lapel roll tailor made suits Vanda Tailors

b. Natural Horsehair Canvas

We use natural horsehair canvas interlining which allows natural drape yet reduce undesired stiffness. Our canvas are top quality Freudenberg components purchased direct from the same suppliers of your favorite designer suits.

 

How to test: Other than the pinch test, always ask to see the actual canvas. The canvas should feel soft and natural and have small details (small folds, cuts and stitching etc) at the corners of the chest, vents and lapel area. Fake canvas from China (which is rampant in South East Asia) are made by cutting rolls of plastic fibres. While this is better by paper-glue lining used by most sweatshops, this is more for “display” purposes. In fact, the sharp plastic edges of the fake canvas will poke through the suit over time and spoil your suit!

baste on mannequin
Suit Canvas Identification chart
Comparing Natural Horse hair canvas & Fake Synthetic Canvas

c. Shoulder Pads

We use light weight Hesla shoulder pads made from natural fibres in our suits. This smooth and curved shape creates a natural look on your shoulder and lapel area.

Hesla Shoulder Pads
Hesla Shoulder Pads

How to test: Simply pinch the shoulder portion of the jacket nearest to the neck or lapel and you should feel some material in between the fabrics. Poor shoulder pads are made from sponge material and are too short. This material is not durable and unable to support your shoulders and lapel because of the flimsy material and short size.
We use light weight Hesla shoulder pads made from natural fibres in our suits. This smooth and curved shape creates a natural look on your shoulder and lapel area.

d. Bemberg Lining

Bemberg lining is a key component of high quality tailor made suits. Bemberg is not only durable but help draw sweat away from the body. It is also used in many designer suits like Armani, Hugo Boss and Zegna etc.

Bemberg swatch book
Bemberg swatch book

What to look out: Many “tailors” in Hoi An recommend cheaper options such as Silk or Polyester (i.e. Satin Silk). Satin Silk is not breathable and will make you feel uncomfortable. Silk, although more expensive than Bemberg, it is thin and wears out fast. Silk is also not as breathable as Bemberg and the color can easily run onto your shirt.

e. Collar & Cuff Facing (Shirt)

Our collars and cuffs are sturdy yet feels soft. We import high quality collars and cuff facing from Japan. These facing are then carefully prepared and fused with our press roller machine.

 

This costs more (higher man effort and machine investments costs) but we feel the results are worth it. Every customer that appreciates a good tailored shirt knows that collars and cuffs are vital.

Quality Collar

How to test: Simply feel the collars and cuffs of sample shirts displayed in any shops. It will be recommended to test shirts meant for customer collection. Most of the time, shirt collars are either too flimsy or too stiff like cardboard.

2. Quality Fabrics

In our goal to bring you the best, we work directly with reputable mills or traders. The same ones that supply your favorite designer labels. These mills or factories have high standards when it comes to processing fabrics, so you can be assured you receive quality products.

 

Most designer clothing are actually “Made in Vietnam” but like every good things, quality yet affordable fabrics do not come to us just like that. It takes years of sourcing, networking and inventory or logistics planning only to be able to offer great fabrics at affordable prices like we do.

 

What to look out: Many tailors in Hoi An lie to customers that they import fabrics from Italy or England. This does not make sense as Vietnam charges high import taxes for European fabrics.

 

Unfortunately, the same few shops conveniently depend on fabric shops around Hoi An for their supply of fabrics. This might be convenient but these fabric shops often sell cheaper fabrics so they can earn high profit margins.

3. Quality Genuine Service

We treat our staff like family and pay our staff high basic salaries with performance bonuses based on how well they attend to customer’s needs. All our staff are also experienced in quality control.

 

Almost every tailor shop in Hoi An pay their staff low basic salaries and the main bulk of their salaries sales commission. While this is economical for the shop, this practice encourages staff to rush through every customer.

 

We feel this pay structure is fundamentally wrong as the faster they sell, the more they earn. When staff view customers as tools to hit sales targets, the end product will naturally be affected.

Vanda Tailors fitting

To encourage genuine service, staff’s salary and job satisfaction are important factors. Tailoring is one of the few businesses where relationships can be built and exist for years.

 

Be it your first job interview or your wedding, our team genuinely hopes to be part of it.

 

Behind all quality tailor made suits are years of hard work and dedication. Tailors, stitchers, cutters, quality control, sales staff and owner have to continually work as a team. Work regarding workmanship details, construction techniques, fabric procurement and equipment investments or training have to be continually fine tuned.

 

With our hard work and tailoring experience, we certainly look forward to produce many more great tailor made suits at affordable prices!

Suits chart