Bemberg (Cupro)

Bemberg and Cupro are words that continuously pop up when you research on quality suits. These make up the lining of a quality suit. It is a rare fabric and only 0.02% of all fabrics produced are Bemberg.  For anyone who owns any suits with Bemberg linings, you will immediately be able to tell genuine Bemberg just by feeling it.

Wool fabrics are crucial for a high quality suit as wool help bring moisture out. This is the reason why many shun from polyester suit fabrics

Hence, getting a wool suit with polyester lining will not make sense. Just imagine wearing a wool suit with plastic bags underneath!

Even though Bemberg was invented by a German, today it is exclusively produced by a Japanese conglomerate Asahi Kasei. Today Bemberg is sold only in 41 countries. Hence, due to its high costs and the high luxury taxes in Vietnam, Bemberg or Cupro are very expensive in Vietnam. Distribution is hence weak.

Asahi Kasei introduced textile production technology developed by J.P.Bemberg, a German Rayon producer and exporter. He entered a licensing agreement with Shitagau Noguchi in 1928 and built the first Bemberg plant in Nobeoka City, Miyazaki Prefecture and started operations in 1931. The process requires the collection of cotton linter from around the world and production requires a great deal of care and technical expertise.  Today it is used by the finest suit producers Hugo Boss, Armani and Zegna.

As Bemberg production require lots of research, technological innovation and detailed production process, Asahi Kasei is still the only manufacturer of Cupro (Bemberg) in the world.

1. Feels like silk

When unsure of the benefits of Bemberg, ask to feel it. The surface feels silky soft and smooth. Reason is Bemberg is made of cotton linter which has rounded fibers, which causes much less abrasion, providing a softer feeling and smoother motion.

2. Moisture Control

Bemberg is made of breathable fibre with micropores that quickly absorb moisture and releases it.

3. Deep color, vibrant lusture

Multiporous skin free fibre surface attributes to the superior color affinity and development and excellent pressure dyeability.

All Bemberg are yarn dyed which means that the fibers are dyed before being woven.

4. Naturally anti static and less clinging

The moisture retained in Bemberg fibres act as a pathway for releasing static electricity into the air. This effectively reduces troublesome static shocks and clinging. Bemnerg also do not attract dust and pollen onto clothing, so you do not need to send your suit to the cleaners so often.

5. Anti odor

Due to the property modifications made to the raw fiber during its manufacturing process, it is naturally anti-odor. It eliminates ammonia, acetic acid, and isovaleric acid (sweat) smells.

Bemberg is very durable. While some high end suit manufacturers championed silk as the ultimate lining previously, this belief is a myth today.  Silk is pretty fragile and the color runs onto your suit frequently. In fact, despite the high cost of Bemberg, genuine silk is much more expensive.

Dry cleaning will best for Bemberg. If needed, it can be hand or machine washed on a gentle cycle with cold water. Never put Bemberg into a dryer as it might cause pilling.

Bemberg is known for its biodegradable and compostable properties. It can naturally break down in 2-3 months. If burned, it also has a much lower environmental impact as compared to other synthetics. Few toxic substances such as Nitrogen oxides, Cardon Monoxide and Carbon Dioxide are released.

Like wool, the burn test applies to Bemberg fabric. There should be no black smoke or residue.

Asahi Kasei is also carbon neutral. They recycle their waste and their fiber scraps are burned as part of power generation. 40% of their power is generated on site using renewable energy such as hydro and biomass power generation.

A garment’s lining is as important as the wool or leather outer layer. However, most people don’t regard Bemberg seriously enough.

In essence, for a comfortable lining, choose Bemberg.