Over the years, we have produced thousands of great tailor made suits. It is our goal to produce high quality clothes at great prices. This goal has kept us motivated for many years.
We know it is not easy for most customers to spot a good tailor made suits. So below are some great tips:
1. Quality Fabrics
Our suit fabric selection includes wool blends suitable for tropical weather and durability in daily wear at very competitive prices. For higher end pure wool material,we are the only tailors in Hoi An that stock Italian Fabrics sourced from from the most respected and prestigious mills in the nothern Italian region called Biella.
Brands we offer for clients with tight timeline are Vitale Barberis Canonico (VBC), Drago Lanificio, Reda1865, Trabaldo Togna, Lanificio Cerruti (acquired by Piacenza) and Lanificio Tallia Di Delfino. These are mills that are synonymous with luxury, innovation and quality.
For clients with luxury of time or locals, we also offer brands like Holland and Sherry, Zegna, Loro Piana, Huddersfield, Officine Paladino, Drapers, E,Thomas, Huddersfield and Piacenza.
Even for our in house 100% wool fabrics, we work with the only reputable brand or mill in Vietnam. As our business depend on word of mouth rather than being pushy, we do not lie about our fabrics.
This is the same company that also supply your favorite designer labels. These mills or factories have high standards when it comes to processing fabrics, so you can be assured you receive quality products.
Most designer clothing are actually “Made in Vietnam” but like every good things, quality yet affordable fabrics do not come to us just like that. It takes years of sourcing, networking and inventory or logistics planning only to be able to offer great fabrics at affordable prices like we do.
Unfortunately, the same few shops conveniently depend on fabric shops around Hoi An for their supply of fabrics. This might be convenient but these fabric shops often sell cheaper fabrics so they can earn high profit margins.
2. QUALITY DETAILS AND COMPONENTS
For your jackets, we understand it is what’s on the inside that counts. Every component is selected not only because of its purpose. We ensure that each component combines with other details to make the best possible suits.
We are the only tailor in Hoi An that does suit jackets with lapel roll (see illustration on right for interior construction of jacket). This means the canvas beneath the jacket is rolled from the chest to the lapel and the canvas is hand stitched onto the tailor made suit.
How to test: The lapel should feel thicker and the fold between the lapel and chest area should be curled and livelier. Cheap suits without lapel roll will look flat abruptly above the first button.
b. Natural Horsehair Canvas
We use natural horsehair canvas interlining which allows natural drape yet reduce undesired stiffness. Our canvas are top quality Freudenberg components purchased direct from the same suppliers of your favorite designer suits. The canvas conforms to your body shape, allowing perfect fit and an elegant look.
How to test: Other than the pinch test, always ask to see the actual canvas. The canvas should feel soft and natural and have small details (small folds, cuts and stitching etc) at the corners of the chest, vents and lapel area. Fake canvas from China (which is rampant in South East Asia) are made by cutting rolls of plastic fibres. While this is better by paper-glue lining used by most sweatshops, this is more for “display” purposes. In fact, the sharp plastic edges of the fake canvas will poke through the suit over time and spoil your suit!
c. Shoulder Pads
We use light weight Hesla shoulder pads made from natural fibres in our suits. This smooth and curved shape creates a natural look on your shoulder and lapel area.
How to test: Simply pinch the shoulder portion of the jacket nearest to the neck or lapel and you should feel some material in between the fabrics. Poor shoulder pads are made from sponge material and are too short. This material is not durable and unable to support your shoulders and lapel because of the flimsy material and short size.
We use light weight Hesla shoulder pads made from natural fibres in our suits. This smooth and curved shape creates a natural look on your shoulder and lapel area.
d. Bemberg Lining
We are the only tailor in Hoi An to offer Bemberg lining (which is a key component of high quality tailor made suits). Bemberg is not only durable but help draw sweat away from the body. It is also used in many designer suits like Armani, Hugo Boss and Zegna etc.
Once you use Bemberg lining, you will never settle on other lining.
What to look out: Many “tailors” in Hoi An recommend cheaper options such as Silk or Polyester (i.e. Satin Silk). Satin Silk is not breathable and will make you feel uncomfortable. Silk, although more expensive than Bemberg, it is thin and wears out fast. Silk is also not as breathable as Bemberg and the color can easily run onto your shirt.
e. Horn & Corozo Buttons
We are the only tailors in Hoi An that offers buffalo horn and corozo buttons. The color is crisp and it is a lot more sturdy as compared to plastic buttons.
f. Sleeve heads
We are the only tailors in Hoi An that sew canvas sleeveheads on the shoulder area so the fabric falls naturally on your shoulder area while avoiding an unnatural bulge.
3. Quality Genuine Service
We treat our staff like family and pay our staff high basic salaries with performance bonuses based on how well they attend to customer’s needs. All our staff are also experienced in quality control.
Almost every tailor shop in Hoi An pay their staff low basic salaries and the main bulk of their salaries sales commission. While this is economical for the shop, this practice encourages staff to rush through every customer.
We feel this pay structure is fundamentally wrong as the faster they sell, the more they earn. When staff view customers as tools to hit sales targets, the end product will naturally be affected.
To encourage genuine service, staff’s salary and job satisfaction are important factors. Tailoring is one of the few businesses where relationships can be built and exist for years.
Be it your first job interview or your wedding, our team genuinely hopes to be part of it.
Behind all quality tailor made suits are years of hard work and dedication. Tailors, stitchers, cutters, quality control, sales staff and owner have to continually work as a team. Work regarding workmanship details, construction techniques, fabric procurement and equipment investments or training have to be continually fine tuned.
With our hard work and tailoring experience, we certainly look forward to produce many more great tailor made suits at affordable prices!
Fabric bunches we offer
Vitale Barberis Canonico Perennial (VBC 110s)
VBC Perennial is the suit fabric par excellence for work. There are plains and class design in a range wide enough to guarantee balance and good measure. Despite its dominance and popularity, Vitale Barberis Canonico (VBC) has never stopped innovating and improving this fabric. Today, the fluidity of the weave, quality of the Super 110s wool and comfortable weight of 260-280gsm enables the wearer to feel great.
Popular articles/fabrics are stocked in store. Most/all stocks can be ordered in 1 working day.
Vitale Barberis Canonico Revenge (VBC 150s)
Made from 15.5 micron wool fibres, the finer yet individually dyed fabric exudes a robust color and deviates from the standard colors of the perennial range. There is also a natural stretch in the fabric and the drape for jacketing is superior compared to jacketing made in many others.
Holland & Sherry Fiesta III (150s)
While this bunch is an older series, the fabrics are of great value. This is one of the few Holland & Sherry bunches held in significant stock by many distributors in the region. This luxurious range is 2-ply in warp and weft resulting in a balanced cloth with excellent handfeel and drape.
There are also a wide selection of Genuine Cashmere Wool which feels soft and luxurious.
Vitale Barberis Canonico (VBC) Monte Carlo
As a result of some changes made to the spinning and weaving process, Vitale Barberis Canonico has developed a hopsack weave in 3D which has no need of pattern as the surface movement is guaranteed by the complexity of the structure. Raised ripples emerge from an uneven background which captures the light and cause tiny shadows suggesting freshness and volume. Both visually and in terms of touch, the fabric evokes a feeling of good health and strong character. Very resonant with fresh air, activity and travel.
Popular articles are stocked
Dolce & Taylor (Grande and Emperor)/ Nobility (28 series)
Dolce & Taylor and Nobility are 2 notable Chinese Wool brands prominent in Vietnam (with the 3rd being Daewon Procantex). Do note that for Dolce & Taylor, the article codes for 100% wool start with 28 or 206.
Contrary to stereotypes about Chinese Wool, this fabric provides excellent value.
Popular fabrics are stocked in store.
100% Wool Flannel (Nobility (29 series)/Alaska)
Popular Nobility Chinese 100% Wool flannel are stocked in store.
Huddersfield Fine Worsteds (Quest II Cottons)
Luxury Cottons in a wide range of plain colors in 290-310gms weight. The quality weave makes it soft and resistant to wrinkle making it suitable for everything from soft drape chinos to formal jackets.
https://www.hfwltd.com/collection/103
Popular articles/fabrics are stocked in store.
Officine Paladino
Officine Paladino is a prominent brand within South East Asia with all fabrics carefully procured from English and Italian mills. Designed for the modern man, many fabrics are imbued with innovative qualities such as stain, water resistance and high twist (wrinkle resistant) qualities.
Require 3 working days to order fabric.
Guabello Super 130s
Since 1815, we have realized precious wool fabrics, expression of a constant creative research, that makes Guabello a real ambassador of beauty and well made Italian excellences, every fabric in the collection stands out for its refined style and relaxed elegance.
Requires 3 working days to order fabric.
Reda 1865
The tradition of Italian excellence that has defined the Reda Group for over 150 years finds its full expression through versatile fabrics that come to life via revisited suits infused with a modern feel. We do offer the Summer Edit and Cosmopolitan series. At present, Reda also offer innovative and trendy Wool shirts.
Requires 5 working days to order fabric.
Drago Sinfonia
Super 160’s. The new bunch of Drago Lanificio in Biella is a selection of exclusive designs made with the finest merino wool – Super 160’s of 240-250g.
Requires 5 working days to order fabric.
Loro Piana Australis (150s)
Australis, the latesticon of Loro Piana, presents a collection of sold colors for blazers and jackets with modern sophisticated designs. The exquisite quality of Super 150s Wool, measuring no more than 16 microns in diameter. This bunch offers classic shades to naturals and brights, and refined patterns that range from chcker board to Prince of Wales, checks and micro patterns. Versatile Australis can be worn all year round, lending its refined, comtemporary look to any occasion.
2-3 working days required for fabric delivery.
